Baking With Chef Desi: A Lesson On Little Things For Grand Cinnamon Rolls

"There is no one way to be organized or detailed-oriented, because orderliness is shaped so much by circumstance."

Chefs always get the same question when they meet a non-cook (or civilian as some of us like to call them): “What’s your favorite thing to cook?” Well, I’m not here to give you an answer because that’s like asking someone what their favorite song is; it will always depend on the mood, season, time of day, the most recently watched T.V. show, or opened magazine. What I can tell you though is the answer to the second question I get asked all the time: “Why did you choose to focus on baking instead of savory food?”


The short answer: I like cake.


The long answer is that baking requires order, precision, and attention to detail. Cooking, on the other hand, allows the cook to have a little bit more freedom, playfulness and randomness.


In baking, chefs work with raw ingredients and most of these are unsafe to eat in their natural state, meaning we have to rely on a lot of science, physics, and chemistry to predict their reaction, taste, and texture. Luckily, an OCD cook a long time ago wrote some stuff down and recipes were invented (phew!), which are no more than the recorded findings of science experiments.


Being a savory cook means having the freedom to try creations as they’re cooking (most of the time). In fact, one of the commandments of being a cook is to try EVERYTHING before, during, and after the preparation process to prevent anything less than perfect being served to the guest. For example, if you’re making a tomato sauce for pasta, you cook the tomatoes with some oil, garlic, onions, basil, oregano, and your apartment smells like Nonna’s house on Saturday afternoon. You cook the pasta, stir the sauce in, sprinkle some cheese and presto! When you taste it you’re less than impressed because you forgot to put salt in your sauce rendering it tasteless. Fear not! Pop the pasta back into the heat, sprinkle some salt and pepper, stir continuously for a few seconds, and dinner is served.


Now, imagine it’s your significant other’s birthday and you’ve decided to bake him/her/them a cake: oven at 350*F, cake goes in, timer goes on. Minutes later you re-read the recipe and realize that you added half a teaspoon of baking powder instead of the half tablespoon it calls for... well, let’s just say it’s not going to be the nice fluffy cake you were hoping for and as you probably have already figured out, there’s not much you can do to fix it. Not to say that cooking savory food is not detail oriented because it very much is, but the failure to pay proper attention to details in baking creates drastic ramifications.


There are so many factors that affect the results of a recipe and sometimes even the slightest change can ruin the whole batch, so pastry chefs tend to be very precise and aware during their process. Measuring everything is a must, and in professional kitchens, it is always done by weight instead of volume because of the added precision. Pastry kitchens, in my experience, also reflect this passion for accuracy: every container is labelled, there is a system for everything, and patterns for every organization. Simply put, pastry chefs who watched The Home Edit were not entirely impressed and that’s mainly because we already use those tools and techniques in our daily work life— and those who are like me— in our personal life too.


Yes, the measuring, and organizing, and categorizing can sometimes take over us off the clock. My kitchen has many categories, my closet is organized by function and color (even the shoes). When I deliver the baked goods I sell, I create a map of the whole route taking into consideration traffic patterns to ensure maximum efficiency. There’s a system!

It sounds a little excessive, I know, but it’s just a way of life. Some of the details come naturally and others I don’t really care that much about. For me, organization and precision is a way for me to be more efficient with my time and space. In baking, it’s about consistency and predictability. For new moms it might be about finding tools to keep a feeding and sleeping schedule; for writers it’s keeping track of ideas; for doctors it’s categorizing symptoms. There is no one way to be organized or detailed-oriented, because orderliness is shaped so much by circumstance. The process is, like a recipe, a science experiment.


For a taste of an experiment worth the attention to details, I’m sharing my cinnamon roll recipe. All the ingredients are straightforward and can be found at your local grocery store. Plus, who doesn't love cinnamon rolls?

Cinnamon Rolls


Ingredients:

6 gr. Dry Active Yeast

180 gr. All Purpose Flour

13 gr. Sugar

5 gr. Salt

120 gr. Whole Milk, room temp

96 gr. Butter, cubed and room temp


Filling:

30 gr. Butter, room temp.

50 gr. Light Brown sugar

3gr. Ground Cinnamon


  1. In the bowl of an electric mixer, combine yeast, sugar, flour, and salt, making sure to combine them in that order so the salt and yeast don’t prematurely mix. In a separate container weigh out the milk.

  2. With the dough hook attachment (or kneading by hand) pour the liquid into the flour mixture until it becomes a ball of dough. Add butter a couple of cubes at a time, kneading until the dough becomes smooth and all the butter has been incorporated. Cover the dough with a clean towel and leave to rest at room temperature until it doubles in size (about 1.5 hours).

  3. For filling: Combine cinnamon and sugar. Mix well and set aside.

  4. Preheat oven at 350*F and prepare your pan by spraying it with cooking spray or greasing it with butter. You can use a 8” round cake pan or a brownie pan.

  5. With a rolling pin, roll out the dough on a floured surface into a rectangle (about 9”x12”). Spread the filling butter evenly on the dough making sure to cover the whole surface. Sprinkle the cinnamon sugar mixture evenly over the butter. Starting from one of the long sides of the rectangle, roll dough onto itself to make a cylinder.

  6. With a sharp knife, cut the cylinder in half creating four smaller cylinders and then cut those into thirds. Place the rolls onto the baking pan leaving about 2” between each one. Cover with a clean towel and leave to rest at room temperature for about 30 minutes. Remove the towel and bake until the tops of the cinnamon rolls are golden brown and slightly crispy (about 15-20 minutes depending on your oven). Remove from the oven and let the cinnamon rolls cool in the pan for about 10 minutes. While rolls are still slightly warm, remove them from the pan, place them on a drying rack or plate and let cool completely before adding frosting of your choice.

  7. For cream cheese frosting: mix 4 oz cream cheese with 2 tablespoons of confectioner’s sugar, and 1/2 tsp of vanilla extract

  8. For royal icing: Mix 1 cup of confectioner’s sugar with 2 teaspoons of water and a 1/2 teaspoon of vanilla extract. You can add more water to make it runnier.

Meet the Family

Desiree is a Venezuelan pastry chef who has worked in world-renown kitchens in New York, Mexico and Spain. She currently resides in San Juan, Puerto Rico where she is in the process of opening a restaurant.


Find her here.

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